Rustic “albergo diffuso” in stunning Matera, Italy with cave-like rooms

Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita / Matera / Basilicata / Italy

Matera in Italy is truly unique. A town that has gone from being the shame of Italy (it was literally labeled this in the 20th century) to being one of Italy’s most interesting and popular places to visit. A town that from the 17th century until the beginning of the 1950s experienced a long decline due to agricultural crises and loss of political and financial influence in the region. This led to increased poverty where the poorest were forced to start to use these caves as their home. They simply moved in and lived together with their live stock in extreme poverty. This situation with abysmal living conditions was why it was labelled the shame of Italy.

Fast forward to today where what was once a shame, is something that gives this town a unique edge and story to tell. And it is amazing that these barren caves could be a perfect set up for a unique boutique hotel, or an Albergo Diffuso to use the correct term. Albergo Diffuso is a kind of ”scattered hotel” that is becoming more and more common in Italy, where you use existing buildings in historic villages, where the rooms are often situated in separate buildings).

This 18-key hotel is located in the outskirts of town facing the surrounding hills. We stayed in one of the suites and what it is so fascinating (on top of the rustic look and feel) is that there is only one source of daylight. Of course there is electricity but as soon as you close the door the room goes pitch dark. No windows letting that southern Italian light in. This made us keep the door ajar allowing us to connect to the village life (and numerous tourists peering into our room).

Belonging to the hotel is also an ancient church which is now a common room where breakfast is served. Outside the church there is a terrace where you can hang out, enjoy the view with something cold to drink.

But the thing is with Matera that you want to explore every single street, alley, hidden staircase and courtyard. This town, with its maze-like set up, is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We loved purposely getting lost, seeing where we would end up, before trying to make our way back again. Very similar activity to what I love to do when in Venice.

And come evening, the day visitors leave in their coaches and the locals start to come out as the sun sets and you get to experience the true magic of Matera.

Welcome to Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita!

Everywhere you turn there is a view that makes you almost lose your breath.

This is a proper key. I always say I am a fan of real keys in favor of boring plastic. This one really takes the prize.

Almost a little surreal stepping into your own little grotto. And what is even more surreal is to think that people, entire families used to live here together with live stock.

We stopped at Conzato Norcineria for something to drink and these amazing local bruschetta with burrata and truffle.

I love how the buildings and the caves are almost camouflaged

There are some great hiking paths that takes you into the hilly surroundings

Even though I snapped it, I must say I really like this photo

We did some research to find the best pizza in town and found this place, Pizza 400 Gradi. Located in the newer parts of town. Well worth a visit.

My favorite time of day. Matera really comes to life in the evening after the sun has set and the town becomes even more magical.

We opened the “window” in our door to let the morning light in

Breakfast is served in what used to be an old church

RG inside info

This place is perfect if you…

…are on the market for something truly unique, a hotel that is made up of old caves turned rustic hotel rooms in a town that were once the shame of Italy and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If rustic is your favorite look, you will love everything with this hotel.

My favorite thing about this place…

…is to get an insight into and a feel of how life must have been back in the day when families used to live like this. And it is also great to stay over night in a place like Matera where most visitors come for the day. Come evening you get to experience the town without the throngs of people and you can have the crisscrossing alleys more or less all to yourself.

What not to miss when staying here…

…is to wander aimlessly through the maze-like city streets, stairs and alleys getting lost on purpose. Especially in the evening when it is dark. It is a magical experience. Surreal even. And if you are looking for good pizza we found a really great place in the more modern part of town called 400 Gradi.

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This is the first time I don’t have any other hotel to recommend here. This hotel (and also the town of Matera) is so unique that there is really nothing like it. At least not that I have stayed at thus far.