Wooden architectural masterpiece located in the mountains one hour west of Tokyo

Shishi Iwa House / Karuizawa / Nagano / Japan

“Off the beaten path”. This is something that is so tempting to me. To leave areas or towns where most visitors tend to end up and find these unsung heroes of locations. And when findings a unique hotel located in such a location, it makes me a vary happy man . When visiting Japan we wanted to (on top of the classic destinations) find something that was a little off the beaten path. And we did. We found this amazing place, Shishi Iwa House, just outside Karuizawa, halfway between Tokyo and Nagano.

Shishi Iwa House was created by world renowned architect, Shigeru Ban. One of his main claims to fame, is to use the scraps that are left over from paper production, the actual paper rolls (basically a larger and more sturdy version of the inside of a toilet roll) as building material for his incredible buildings. He uses this sustainable building material in the actual structures but also in furniture.

Shishi Iwa House consists of 3 separate buildings named SSH 01, 02 and 03. Logically, SSH 01 was the first and original building and was finished in 2018. It is a sleek building with a fluid shape, almost like a snake slithering off into the forest.

SSH 02, from 2022, was created to be the main building. It is here you’l find the reception and also the restaurant and bar. It is a wooden, lodge-like building with light flooding in from all directions.

SSH03 is the most recent addition, from 2023, and is different compared to the other two, with its dark, charred wooden structure and the rooms are connected via wooden walkways.

All in all there are 30 rooms at this hotel. We stayed in SSH 03 and our room was minimalistic, more or less all made of wood. We are talking lo-fi with nothing to disturb the calmness and tranquility. You can choose between Japanese or Western room (it is mainly referring to the style of bed). We opted for a Western while our adventurous friends Fanny & Fredrik went Japanese. My favorite feature in our room was the massive bathtub made of Hinoki wood. It was such a treat to slide into the warm water, after a proper Japanese bathing ritual, and feel the scent of the wood while relaxing in the hot water.

Best way to arrive is by Shinkansen. Love the punctuality and the efficiency of the trains in Japan. We departed from Kyoto…

…and some hours and one change in Tokyo plus a short taxi ride later, we arrived at Shishi Iwa House. This is the SSH 02 building.

The reception area where you can see how Shigeru Ban incorporates the paper rolls left which is a kind of scrap left over from paper production. It is like an architectural version of “Where’s Waldo” to find the rolls in different parts of the hotel.

Everything is so stylish and minimalist, including the graphic profile of the printed material.

All checked in and ready to head to our room.

The hotel is made up of three different buildings. We stayed in the most recent addition, SSH 03.

A portable light to use in the evening when darkness has settled. They are placed at he entrance where you take off your shoes and use the slippers provided.

The craftsmanship in the wooden details is amazing.

Compared to SSH 01 and 02, SSH 03 is all black.

Our room with western style bed. Our friends Fanny & Fredrik were more brave and chose a traditional Japanese room with tatami beds.

The bathroom is prepped for a proper Japanese bathing ritual.

SSH 01 is located between SSH 02 and 03. This was the first of the three to be built.

Time to leave the hotel and head outdoors for a hike up to the nearby waterfall.

After hike comes buns. There is a small village centre built a short walk from the hotel where you’ll find some cute shops, cafés and restaurants.

Enjoying a long, hot soak in our Hinoki bath tub after the hike.

An apertivio before dinner. Some local whiskey.

Wagyu burger was my choice for dinner. Was not disappointed.

M enjoying a coffee in the morning sun, outside of our room.

RG inside info

This place is perfect if you…

…love subtle design, exquisite architecture and serenity. If you want to experience a modern take on a rural Japanese retreat with great service and food, you will not be disappointed at Shishi Iwa House.

My favorite thing about this place…

…is the tranquility. Even thought the hotel is located right next to a road, as soon as you close the door behind you there is totally calmness. The design is minimalist, more or less all wooden and the surroundings invite you to just wind down and relax.

What not to miss when staying here…

…is to go for a hike in the surroundings. We walked to the waterfall which was a great little tour, followed by some coffee and buns at the village centre that was a 10 min walk from the hotel. And to round things off, you must finish off, like we did, with a long bath in our own Hinoki bath tub.

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